Inside the SBB Vintage is a manually wound Swiss ETA 2801-2 mechanical movement that you can see through the display caseback. This older movement is not commonly used, but you can see it here. It sort of looks like a smaller UNITAS. Personally I would have liked the watch to contain an automatic, but I suppose that wouldn't have been "vintage" enough. Manually wound watches to do have their fans however. Mondaine claims that the piece will be limited to just 400 pieces - though the watches are unfortunately not individually numbered it seems. What I would like to see is Mondaine to step it up a bit and have some nicer watches that have quality on par with say Movado. I think that a very slick, refined version of the classic SBB Railways watch in the 00 range on a nice bracelet would get a lot of takers. Price for this piece is about 4.
With a thin bezel, sapphire crystal and display case back, the movement essentially becomes the anchor for the entire design and presence of the T-Complications Squelette. The movement is a Tissot decorated and prepared ETA 6497-1 hand wound movement that is a capable, if basic, timekeeper that has been used for decades by many manufacturers. Offering a three-hand time display with seconds on a sub dial at nine, the hands and hour markers are executed in steel blue and offer enough contrast against the brushed steel finishing on the movement to be legible.
The TAG Heuer Grand Carrera Caliber 36 RS Caliper is an imposing watch. It is 43 mm wide and 15.75 mm high. At just over 190 grams, it is also rather heavy. Its steel construction reminds you that this is a manly instrument that can be used for serious timing tasks.Read more ›
Tech Specs from Perrelet:
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Another nice touch is that the hands for each of these tally subdial is done in the same shiny stainless steel as the case, however, the background is silvery white with a radiating pattern that contrasts well with the black dial and silver hands. The result is a watch with a really distinctive look, especially since the rotating slide rule background is also of that same silvery white finish. Truly an elegant, unique instrument style, that is recognizable from a crowded chronograph pilot watch market…
Straps offer up a world of possibilities. The range of shades and tones on offer both from brands and custom makers allow you to follow themes from shirts, suits ties or socks. The current popularity of the NATO, available in a rainbow of regimental colours, takes this further, allowing you to match strap to watch and outfit at the same time.
The Cyrus Kambys watch will be limited to 188 pieces in each of the case materials. Which will be titanium, DLC black coated titanium, as well as 18k red gold. A timepiece like this is in many ways a pure collector's item for those interested in whimsical complications that express a sense of mechanical art versus technical prowess. Price is 42,800 Swiss Francs. cyrus-watches.chRead more ›
Like the new Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Annual Calendar, the Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT comes in a 48mm wide case. Larger than the smaller 40mm wide size (three-hand) that will also be available this year, but smaller than last year's 57.5mm wide Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 watch. 48mm is still big, but seen on the wrist of a man, a large pilot watch seems sensible. They are after all, supposed to be large and visible. The expansive dial of the GMT is marked by a large red-tipped GMT hand, as well as a subsidiary seconds dial. I really love the large, heavy looking hands coated in lume. Note the dedicated GMT scale on the periphery of the dial for the GMT hand.Read more ›
From classy now to sporty, the chronograph with annual calendar in the El Primero 4054 finds itself a good home in the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Annual Calendar. The timepieces will sport 48mm wide cases in that beautiful old pilot watch style based on an original vintage Zenith pilot watch and airplane instrument clock design. We were able to get a sneak peak at the new Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 watches for 2013 back in January and they look fantastic. While at almost 60mm wide the original was tough to stomach on the wrist for long periods of time. The new more reasonable sizes make sense and the design of the cases and dials is fantastic. This year Zenith will offer the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Annual Calendar in both steel and 18k rose gold.
Adi Soon visits Watches of Knightsbridge in London to find out more about the trend of buying vintage watches and how one can go about selecting one. As opposed to buying new, getting a vintage watch has its challenges. For example, buyers need to be wary of the authenticity of the piece, the condition it is in, and where and whom he can turn to if servicing or repairs are required. Personally, I think that while buying vintage watches does come with its share of risks, vintage watches do have an indescribable appeal and charm.
To my mind, there can be no doubt that for haute horlogerie (while arguably a niche market) there is at the moment, sufficient and solvent demand for both its clean, less sophisticated offerings as well as these ultra high-end realizations of scarcely paralleled achievements. With the detailed introduction of the Gyrotourbillon-III being just around the corner, those concerned may rest assured that Jaeger-LeCoultre, along with a few others in this game, will continue to strive for even finer, better (and for the more down-to-Earth spectators), crazier twists on this age-old recipe. I most certainly am looking forward to seeing what they come up with!
Nothing on the watch is perfectly centered. The tourbillon is slightly to the left, while the hands for the hours and minute are slightly to the right. Given that there is no simple scale for the time, it is not easy to read the time on this watch. Having said that, there is a scale for the hours and minutes away from the hands, on the periphery of the dial. Interestingly enough the markers do sort of line up to the eccentric position of the hands, but this isn't a piece most people are going to read at a mere glance. Having said that, you are more likely to stare at the small marbles that represent Earth and Mars in an attempt to read the time.
aBlogtoWatch (ABTW): Who are you and what is your relationship to the watch industry?
Gc watches are certainly trendy in design, but in a manner that seeks to incorporate a lot of elements from classic looking timepieces. The result is a youthful look and feel, but one that doesn't forget its base is in horology. The Sport Class XXL series has the "extra, extra large" size designation in the name because the case is rather robust at 45mm wide. However, that is the size of this specific model only. There are many members of the Sport Class XXL collection, and not all are 45mm wide. In fact, XXL is the only size the collection seems to come in, though there are smaller models, such as a 42mm wide Sport Class XXL. This is worth mentioning when looking at the product range so that you know some pieces are smaller.Read more ›
Now to what is unique to the Worldtimer versus the other pilot models in IWC's lineup: a rotatable 24 hours ring that is half colored in white with black markers and in black with white markers. Around the dial's periphery is another ring (fixed) with 24 cities plus UTC (top) and the Date Line (bottom), both in red, showing 24 timezones around the world. Since the hour ring rotates, the time can be read in all 24 timezones at once. The white part of the ring indicates daytime, whereas the black tells you that it's nighttime. The way to read the time for (almost) anywhere in the world is to find the city on the ring that is closest to it and read the time for that city. So for instance, the time in Silicon Valley or for San Francisco can be read from the Los Angeles city marker. You simply read the hour from the rotating hour ring that is closest to the center of the Los Angeles marking on the city ring. This works for most cities in the world, excepting those with 1/2 hour timezones, e.g., Caracas and New Delhi.
Highly polished steel cases are sort of a hallmark of Breitling watches. They help take the pieces from being mere tools to also style items. It is Breitling's not so subtle, subtle way of adding bling to otherwise serious utilitarian designs. I get to handle a lot of polished steel and steel cases. Breitling takes their cases quite seriously using very good metal and applying very good polishing techniques. One of the only non-polished areas on the watch is the surface of the bezel. The brushed steel makes for a nice contrast. The Breitling Chronomat 44 GMT is heavy, and feels super solid. It is also water resistant to 200 meters. So by all means take it for a little dive.
Balance: Linear escapement 15 tooth
Chronometric balance with inertia weight
Anachron free-sprung flat balance spring
Mobile stud holder
Nivatronic laser soldered balance spring
Pinned GE stud
Three-position winding stem
Barrel with slipping spring
Frequency: 21,600 Alt/h, 3 Hz
Inertia 10.10 mgcm2
Angle of lift: 52°
Amplitude: 0 hr dial up: > 300°
24 hr dial up: > 220°
Autonomy: 160+/- 12 hours
Not much more information is available at this time but this is the first time CMC has been used in watch construction and, if ever available on a production model, should boast considerable advantages in terms of not only weight, but also longevity. TAG Heuer says the case is just 19 grams, and the entire watch with the movement is less than 80 grams. We tip our collective hat to TAG Heuer for making yet another drool-worthy concept that bucks the "just add a tourbillon" trend that is so prevalent in top tier watchmaking these days. By "concept" TAG Heuer once again means "we will make a few expensive pieces." The Carrera is one of TAG Heuer's most enduring model names and it is encouraging to see TAG Heuer consistently striving to make their watches interesting, capable, and packed full of good technology. So what do you think? Lusty or just another pricey concept watch? tagheuer.com
As hard to believe as it may seem, evolutionary development of even such ultra-products is possible. While there certainly are interesting aspects of such progress in haute gamme elements, witnessing what the new masters find lacking in their greatest achievements is always a real treat for the open-minded. The changes between the first and second models are mostly subtle, yet telling. The manufacture has not communicated its intentions of improving the second model’s chronometric results, however, the modifications applied to the second generation definitely suggest such purposes.
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